Proven Ways How To Get Rid Of Spurge In A Lawn

Can you get rid of spurge in your lawn? Yes, you can effectively remove spurge from your lawn through a combination of manual removal, appropriate herbicides, and good lawn care practices. This comprehensive guide will walk you through proven methods for spurge control, helping you reclaim a healthy, weed-free lawn.

Spurge, a common and often stubborn lawn weed, can quickly take over a healthy turf. Knowing how to tackle it is key to maintaining a beautiful yard. This guide will cover everything from identifying spurge to employing the best strategies for its eradication.

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Deciphering Lawn Weed Identification: Spotting Spurge

Before you can tackle spurge, you need to be sure that’s what you’re dealing with. Proper lawn weed identification is the first step in any effective weed control plan. Spurge is a low-growing, spreading annual weed with a distinctive appearance.

• Growth Habit: Spurge is a prostrate or spreading weed. This means it grows flat along the ground, forming dense mats. This low profile allows it to evade mowing for a while, but eventually, it will get cut.
• Leaves: The leaves of spurge are typically small, oval, and often have a reddish or purplish tint, especially in stressed conditions. They grow in opposite pairs along the stem. Some species may have a spot or mark on the leaf.
• Stems: The stems are usually reddish and can grow quite long, rooting where they touch the soil. This allows a single plant to spread over a large area.
• Flowers: Spurge produces very small, inconspicuous flowers, often greenish or reddish, located in the leaf axils (where the leaf meets the stem).
• Sap: A key identifying feature is a milky white sap that emerges from the stems and leaves when they are broken or cut. This sap can be a skin irritant for some people.
• Reproduction: Spurge reproduces by seed. Each plant can produce thousands of seeds, which can remain viable in the soil for many years, leading to a persistent problem if not addressed.

Common Spurge Varieties in Lawns:

• Spotted Spurge ( Chamaesyce maculata ): This is perhaps the most common type found in lawns. It has a dense, spreading habit and often features a reddish spot on each leaf.
• Prostrate Spurge ( Chamaesyce humifusa ): Similar to spotted spurge, but generally without the prominent leaf spot. It has a very low-growing, sprawling habit.
• Creeping Spurge ( Euphorbia esula ): While more commonly found in fields and disturbed areas, certain varieties can invade lawns. This is a perennial spurge with a more upright growth habit and a deeper root system, making creeping spurge control more challenging.

Accurate identification helps determine the best course of action. For instance, a perennial spurge requires different treatment than an annual one.

The Life Cycle of Spurge: When to Act

To effectively combat spurge, it’s crucial to understand its life cycle. Spurge is typically an annual weed, meaning it completes its life cycle from seed to seed in one growing season.

1. Germination: Spurge seeds germinate in warm soil. This usually happens in late spring or early summer, typically when soil temperatures consistently reach 60°F (15°C) or higher.
2. Growth: Once germinated, spurge grows rapidly, forming a mat of stems and leaves that spreads across the soil surface.
3. Flowering and Seeding: It flowers and produces seeds throughout the summer and into the fall.
4. Death: As a cool-season annual, spurge plants die with the first frost. However, the seeds they have produced can overwinter in the soil and germinate the following year.

This annual nature is both a blessing and a curse. While the parent plants die, the vast number of seeds left behind ensures the problem will return if preventative measures aren’t taken.

Proven Methods for Spurge Eradication

Getting rid of spurge requires a multi-pronged approach. Combining several strategies often yields the best results for garden spurge removal and lawn health.

1. Manual Removal: Pulling Spurge

For small infestations or when you want to avoid chemicals, hand-pulling is an effective method.

• Best Time to Pull: Pull spurge when the soil is moist. This makes it easier to remove the entire plant, including the root system. If the soil is dry and hard, use a trowel or garden fork to loosen the soil around the weed before pulling.
• Technique: Grasp the weed firmly at its base and pull steadily upwards. Try to get the entire root system. If the stems break, you might leave pieces behind, which could potentially regrow or re-root.
• Frequency: Regular weeding sessions are essential, especially in the early stages of growth before the plants go to seed.
• Disposal: Dispose of pulled spurge properly. Do not compost it, as the seeds may survive and spread. Bag them and put them in the trash.

While effective for isolated plants, hand-pulling can be time-consuming and impractical for larger infestations.

2. Chemical Control: Herbicides for Spurge

Herbicides are often the most efficient way to manage spurge in larger lawn areas. There are two main types: pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.

Pre-Emergent Herbicides

Pre-emergent herbicides work by preventing weed seeds from germinating. This is a crucial step in controlling annual weeds like spurge before they even appear.

• How they work: They form a barrier in the soil that kills germinating seedlings. They are most effective when applied before weed seeds sprout.
• The Best Time to Treat Spurge with Pre-emergents: The best time to treat spurge with pre-emergent herbicides is in the early spring, typically before soil temperatures consistently reach 60°F (15°C). This timing is critical to catch spurge seeds as they begin to germinate. Applying too early might mean the herbicide breaks down before the seeds are ready to sprout, while applying too late means some spurge plants will have already emerged.
• Common Pre-emergent Active Ingredients:
  • Dithiopyr
  • Pendimethalin
  • Prodiamine
  • Trifluralin
• Application: Follow label instructions carefully. Most pre-emergents require watering into the soil after application to activate them. They are generally safe for established turfgrass when applied correctly. Avoid applying pre-emergents to newly seeded lawns or areas where you plan to seed soon, as they can also inhibit the germination of desirable grass seeds.
• Benefits: Highly effective at preventing spurge from establishing.
• Limitations: Do not kill existing weeds. Some may have restrictions on overseeding.

Post-Emergent Herbicides

Post-emergent herbicides are designed to kill weeds that have already emerged and are actively growing.

• How they work: They are absorbed by the leaves and stems of the weed and translocate throughout the plant, killing it.
• The Best Time to Treat Spurge with Post-emergents: The best time to treat spurge with post-emergent herbicides is when the weeds are young and actively growing, but before they have a chance to set seed. Young plants are more susceptible to herbicide action. This generally means treating them in late spring or early summer.
• Types of Post-Emergent Herbicides:
  • Broadleaf Weed Killers: Many herbicides formulated for broadleaf weeds are effective against spurge. Look for products containing:
    • 2,4-D: A common and effective broadleaf herbicide.
    • Dicamba: Another potent broadleaf herbicide.
    • MCPP (Mecoprop): Often found in combination products.
    • Triclopyr: Effective on many tough broadleaf weeds.
  • Selective vs. Non-Selective: Most lawn herbicides are selective, meaning they target broadleaf weeds without harming grasses. Non-selective herbicides (like glyphosate) will kill any plant they contact, including your lawn grass, so they should be used with extreme caution, only spot-treating individual weeds.
• Application:
  • Read the Label: Always read and follow the product label instructions precisely. This includes mixing ratios, application rates, and safety precautions.
  • Temperature: Avoid applying herbicides when temperatures are very high (above 85-90°F or 29-32°C), as this can stress the lawn and increase the risk of damage.
  • Wind: Do not apply on windy days to prevent drift onto desirable plants or neighboring properties.
  • Watering: Some products work best on dry foliage, while others require moist soil.
  • Repeat Applications: Some stubborn weeds or larger infestations may require repeat applications. Check the label for re-application intervals.
• Targeting Specific Weeds: While spurge is the target, you might also be dealing with other common lawn weeds. Many broadleaf weed killers are designed to control multiple types of weeds. For example, a good broadleaf weed killer can often help with dandelion control and other broadleaf invaders simultaneously. Similarly, if you’re also concerned about crabgrass treatment, you’ll need to choose herbicides accordingly, as crabgrass requires specific control measures, often involving pre-emergents.

Important Note: It’s essential to use herbicides that are labeled for use on your specific type of lawn grass (e.g., fescue, bluegrass, Bermuda grass). Some herbicides can damage certain grass types.

3. Cultural Practices: Building a Healthier Lawn

A healthy, dense lawn is your best defense against weeds like spurge. Good cultural practices make it difficult for weeds to establish and thrive.

• Mowing:
  • Height: Mow your lawn at the higher end of the recommended height for your grass type. Taller grass shades the soil, preventing weed seeds from germinating and outcompeting weeds.
  • Sharp Blades: Ensure your mower blades are sharp. Dull blades tear grass, making it more susceptible to disease and stress, which can open the door for weeds.
• Watering:
  • Deep and Infrequent: Water your lawn deeply but infrequently. This encourages deep root growth, making the grass more drought-tolerant and better able to compete with weeds. Shallow, frequent watering promotes shallow root systems that are weaker against weed competition.
  • Water Early: Water in the morning. This allows the grass blades to dry off before evening, reducing the risk of fungal diseases.
• Fertilizing:
  • Proper Nutrition: Fertilize your lawn according to soil test recommendations and your grass type’s needs. A well-fed, healthy lawn can vigorously compete with weeds. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can also encourage weed growth.
• Aeration:
  • Soil Health: Core aeration improves air, water, and nutrient penetration into the soil. This strengthens the grass roots and improves overall lawn health, making it more resistant to weed invasion.
• Dethatching:
  • Thatch Layer: A thick layer of thatch can harbor weed seeds and disease. Dethatching helps remove this layer, allowing water and nutrients to reach the soil and grass roots.

4. Organic Spurge Control Methods

For those who prefer an organic spurge control approach, several methods can be employed, though they often require more diligence and persistence.

• Corn Gluten Meal: This is a natural pre-emergent that can inhibit seed germination. It’s best applied in early spring before spurge seeds germinate. It also acts as a mild nitrogen fertilizer. However, its effectiveness can vary, and timing is crucial.
• Vinegar (Horticultural Strength): Horticultural vinegar (acetic acid 10-20%) can burn the foliage of young spurge plants. It is a non-selective contact killer, meaning it will harm any plant it touches. It works best on very young weeds and may require multiple applications. It does not affect the roots, so perennial spurge may regrow. Use with caution as it can damage your lawn grass if misapplied.
• Boiling Water: Pouring boiling water directly on spurge can kill it. This is a very targeted method suitable for small patches, especially in cracks in pavement or patios. Be careful not to splash it onto desirable plants.
• Flame Weeding: Using a propane torch designed for weed burning can be effective. The heat ruptures plant cells. Like vinegar and boiling water, it’s a contact killer and requires repeat applications, especially for established plants. It’s also a fire risk, so use extreme caution.
• Manual Removal: As discussed earlier, regular hand-pulling is a cornerstone of organic weed management.

Combining Strategies for Maximum Effectiveness

The most successful spurge control programs often integrate multiple methods.

1. Spring: Apply a pre-emergent herbicide in early spring to prevent spurge seed germination. Maintain good mowing and watering practices to promote healthy turf.
2. Late Spring/Early Summer: Scout for any spurge that may have escaped pre-emergent treatment. If found, spot-treat with a post-emergent broadleaf herbicide or hand-pull young plants.
3. Summer: Continue with proper lawn maintenance. If spurge is still present and actively growing, spot-treat again with a post-emergent herbicide if necessary.
4. Fall: Apply a pre-emergent herbicide again in the fall. This can help prevent winter annual weeds and provide a head start against spurge the following spring. Fall is also an excellent time to overseed thin areas of your lawn to further thicken the turf.

Dealing with Specific Scenarios

• Creeping Spurge Control: As a perennial, creeping spurge has a more robust root system. You may need to apply a systemic herbicide that can translocate into the roots. Multiple applications of post-emergent herbicides might be necessary, and patience is key. Proper lawn health is even more critical for perennial weeds.
• Spurge in Garden Beds: For spurge in garden beds, manual removal is often the preferred method, especially near edible plants. A thick layer of mulch can also suppress spurge by blocking sunlight needed for germination. If using herbicides in garden beds, choose products specifically labeled for use around certain plants and follow directions meticulously.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: What is the best time of year to treat spurge?
A1: The best time to treat spurge depends on the method. For pre-emergent herbicides, apply in early spring before soil temperatures consistently reach 60°F (15°C). For post-emergent herbicides, apply when spurge is young and actively growing in late spring or early summer.

Q2: Can I use a weed killer on my lawn if I have pets or children?
A2: Yes, but always read the product label for specific safety instructions. Many herbicides require you to keep pets and children off the treated area until the product has dried completely and is no longer visible on the grass blades. Some products are designed to be safer for use around children and pets after drying.

Q3: My spurge problem is severe. What is the most effective approach?
A3: For severe infestations, a combination approach is usually best. Start with a pre-emergent application in early spring. Follow up with targeted post-emergent applications on any weeds that emerge. Simultaneously, focus on improving your lawn’s overall health through proper mowing, watering, and fertilization to make it more resistant to future weed growth.

Q4: Will crabgrass treatment also kill spurge?
A4: Crabgrass is a grass weed, while spurge is a broadleaf weed. Herbicides for crabgrass treatment are usually different from those for broadleaf weeds. You will need to use a broadleaf weed killer for spurge. However, many pre-emergent herbicides are effective against the seeds of both crabgrass and spurge.

Q5: Is there an organic way to permanently get rid of spurge?
A5: While achieving complete “permanent” removal of any weed can be challenging, consistent application of organic spurge control methods like thorough manual removal, maintaining a dense turf, and using natural pre-emergents like corn gluten meal can significantly reduce and manage spurge over time. Persistence is key with organic methods.

By implementing these proven strategies, you can effectively combat spurge and enjoy a healthier, more beautiful lawn. Remember that consistent effort and understanding your lawn’s needs are your greatest allies in the ongoing battle against weeds.